We visited Coober Pedy as part of our road trip through the centre of Australia, from Darwin to Adelaide. We had an afternoon and one night in Coober Pedy before continuing towards Adelaide. There are masses of things to do, and see, in Coober Pedy, and we barely scratched the surface of these. However, I believe we got a good look at Coober Pedy and what life is like in this outback mining town. It is an awe-inspiring place, unlike anything I had seen before.
About Coober Pedy
Coober Pedy is known internationally as the ‘Opal Captial of the World’. It is located in outback South Australia, 850km north of Adelaide. Opal was first discovered in 1915, and the town was first known as Stuart Range Opal Fields. In 1920 it was renamed Coober Pedy derived from the Aboriginal name ‘kupa-piti’ meaning ‘white man in a hole’.
This unusual town has a population of approximately 2,000 people and has increasingly become a popular tourist destination. After visiting Coober Pedy, I understand the attraction. As we drove closer to Coober Pedy, we entered a barren moonscape-like landscape. It was strangely beautiful. Coober Pedy is unique in its underground living. With its harsh, unforgiving terrain, it is a spectacular and authentic outback experience.
Arriving in Coober Pedy
When we arrived in Coober Pedy, we checked into the Opal Inn Caravan Park. We were travelling with our camper trailer and were the only people camping at the time. I best mention now that our visit to Coober Pedy took place during the COVID-19 pandemic. Some restrictions had lifted, and people were being encouraged to travel within their own state, but this was early days, and we had the place to ourselves.
Once we set up at the caravan park, we went to the tourist information centre. We told the assistant that we were there just for the afternoon, and asked if she could tell us what was open and if she has any thoughts on the best way to see Coober Pedy in such a short time. We mentioned we would like to see inside one of the underground buildings and a museum or a least something relating the history of the area.
A short while later we left the information centre armed with a map, attraction brochures and an idea of how we would fill our day.
Desert Cave Hotel
The Desert Cave Hotel is the world’s only underground international hotel. It was suggested we have a quick look at this hotel as it is underground and has a lot of historical and mining information available. We were told that visitors were free to have a look at the displays and, of course, visit the bar.
St Peter and Paul Catholic Church
Opened on June 25th in 1967, St Peter and Paul Catholic Church was Coober Pedy’s first underground church. It also holds the title of first purpose-built underground Catholic Church of its type in the world.
Kanku – Breakaways Conservation Park
This was the highlight of our time in Coober Pedy. The incredible landscape captures the imagination and leaves you amazed. The park is home to many important cultural, geological and heritage sites.
A drive through this park takes you along the Dog Fence and past startling colourful outcrops, plateaus and escarpments. The colours of the barren land include red, orange, yellow, brown and white.
Tip: Visit the park at sunset or sunrise to witness the colours in all their glory.
The Dog Fence
The Dog Fence is a pest-exclusion fence that was built, in Australia during the 1880s and finished in 1885, to keep dingoes out of pastoral sheep land in the southern parts of Australia. It is one of the longest structures in the world. It stretches 5,614 kilometres (3,488 mi) from Jimbour in Queensland to Nunroo in South Australia.
Old Timer’s Mine
This hidden mine was discovered when an underground home-extension thrust through into the cavern of an old mine, revealing valuable opals you can see in situ even today. This attraction is an exciting look at opal mining through the ages. It consists of a historical museum, genuine underground home from 1916 and 1960, souvenirs and masses of opals. There are even noodling pits to try your luck looking for opals.
We really enjoyed our time exploring the warren of caves which make up this historic mine. The displays of opals, old mining tools, sandstone sculptures, original 1918 dugout and corresponding interpretive signage were impressive. In fact, this is the place to go if you want to learn about Coober Pedy but don’t have masses of time.
The Big Winch Lookout
This is an excellent place for a view overlooking Coober Pedy. The winch was initially built in the 1970s to celebrate the ‘Opal Capital of the World’. After a fire destroyed the original it was rebuilt in 1986.
Coober Pedy Spaceship
The spaceship was built in the 1980s by some men who planned to use it as a “Man Cave”. A place they could conduct business or relax and watch the sunset. I don’t think it was ever completed.
The Best Pizza in Australia…?
In our ‘Discover Coober Pedy 2020’ information booklet, we noticed that John’s Pizza Bar and Restaurant was voted “Best Pizza in Australia”. I am never one to pass up trying the best pizza, so we had dinner at John’s, and it didn’t disappoint. We ordered the Capricciosa with tomato, cheese, ham, mushroom, capsicum, olives and anchovy. Delicious!
More Information
Currency
Australian dollar – AUD – written here as $
Things to do
Kanku – Breakaway Conservation Park
Cost – Vehicle entry: $10.00 or (concession): $8.00
Opening hours – open daily
Location – 25km north of Coober Pedy
More info – Camping not permitted. Wood fires and solid fuel fires are prohibited throughout the year. Gas fires and liquid fuel fires are permitted, other than on days of total fire ban. No pets allowed. Do not feed birds or other animals. There are no bins in national parks, please come prepared to take your rubbish with you. Respect geological and heritage sites. Do not remove or damage the flora.
St Peter & Paul Catholic Church
Cost – Free / gold coin donation welcome
Opening hours – I’m not sure of general opening times, there is a phone number below. Mass times – Saturday 18:30pm and Sunday 10:00 am
Location – LOT 27 Hutchison St, Coober Pedy SA 5723
Phone – +61 8 8672 5011
Old Timer’s Mine
Cost -$12.50 adult / $10 seniors & students / $5 for children (family and group prices available).
Opening hours – Open 7 days 08:30 – 17:30
Location – Crowders Gully Road, Coober Pedy
Phone – +61 8 8672 5555
More info – They have a free camping site.
John’s Pizza Bar and Restaurant
Opening hours – Open 7 days 10:00 till late.
Location – 1/24 Hutchison St, Coober Pedy
Phone – +61 8 8672 5561
More info – Gluten free available. Furthermore, they sell steak, burgers, pasta, seafood and sandwiches. Licensed for beer and wine. Eat-in or take away.
Accommodation
We typically book our accommodation through booking.com. Indeed we like the convenience of booking online, and we are usually able to pay for our accommodation on arrival at the hotel/resort or room. Additionally, booking.com advertise many different accommodation styles at Coober Pedy, so you are sure to find the perfect place.
Cost – $25 per night for two people in an unpowered tent site (June 2020)
Pros – Free wifi. Clean amenities and laundry – washers, dryers and iron board. Pets are allowed on a leash, and you must clean up after them. Sewage dump points. Caravan water tanks can be filled at approximately $1 for 40 litres. Water is safe to drink. There is a communal fire pit and BBQ. Close to restaurants and the Visitor Information Centre.
Cons – Water cannot be connected to caravans.
Our verdict – Good location.
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